Europe by train: how to get more bang for your buck

When it comes to train travel in Europe, the big question is always the same: is it better to purchase a railpass or point-to-point tickets? Railpass marketing is persuasive, and I'm often emailed by travellers who want to make two or three train trips which could easily be booked online for €30 ($40) each, asking if they should buy a $500 railpass.  So check out these four different options before assuming you need a pass! These prices were correct at the time of writing so please use them as a rough guide only!

Option 1: Invest in a railpass

When to use it: If you intend to clock up a fair old mileage and (crucially) want to stay completely flexible, then a railpass can be the just the ticket. It's especially likely to be the best bet if you're under 26, as 'youth' passes are much cheaper than adult passes and better value compared to normal tickets.

How it works: You can buy a pass covering most of Europe ('Global') or just one chosen country, for a variety of different durations, from either the Eurail pass range if you live outside Europe, or the InterRail pass range if you're a European resident. 'Continuous' passes give a number of consecutive days' unlimited rail travel, ideal if you're going to be on the go much of the time. 'Flexi' passes give a number of days' unlimited train travel to be 'spent' on any dates you like within the overall duration of the pass, making them more economical if you plan to stay put between journeys.

A word of advice: If you buy a pass, remember that there may be extra charges to pay. In France, Italy and Spain, virtually all long distance trains require passholders to pay a reservation fee, typically €3-10 a trip. Thalys trains from Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam now charge passholders a whopping €39. On the other hand, in Switzerland, Germany and Austria reservation is hardly ever compulsory and there are few if any passholder surcharges. Passes also don't cover Eurostar between London and Paris - there's a £57 passholder fare, but if you book in advance on the Eurostar website you'll find regular one-way fares from £39.

You'll find more pass information on the Eurail website or the InterRail website.

Option 2: Buy point-to-point tickets at the station as you go along

When to use it: This option makes more sense than a pass if you're only going to make short journeys, or journeys in Eastern Europe where fares are so cheap anyway.

How it works: A trip from Florence to Pisa for €5.80 each way hardly justifies a pass, and in Eastern Europe, Ljubljana to Zagreb costs less than €17, Prague to Krakow around €35. To check fares, you'll need to find the train operator website for each country, there's a list on the Seat 61 website.

Option 3: Buy cheap point-to-point tickets online in advance

When to use it: This is what railpass agencies would rather you didn't know. Over the last few years, most Western European train operators have adopted airline-style pricing, with expensive flexible fares on the day of travel and some remarkably cheap fares if you book in advance. This means that if you’re willing to put in some planning time, you could pocket the savings.

How it works: Naturally, the cheapest fares are non-refundable and non-changeable, but if you have a fixed itinerary and are happy to pre-book one to three months ahead, this is often cheaper than a pass.  For example, the French Railways website sells tickets from Paris to Amsterdam from only €3 ($45), €4 less than the €39 surcharge you'd pay with a pass, and there's no postage or booking fees to pay, seat reservation is included, and you print your own ticket (Tip:  If you're from the USA, say you're from Canada to avoid being bumped to Rail Europe).

The German railways website sells tickets from Berlin to Prague from €29, or Amsterdam to Prague by overnight train from €49 with couchette or €79 with a bed in a 2-bed sleeper.  In Spain, a 'web fare' from Madrid to Seville costs €33.30 on the Spanish Railways website, and Tren Italia offers 'Mini' fares from Florence to Rome for €19 or an overnight couchette from Venice to  Paris for a 'Smart' fare of €45.  The key thing is to book in advance direct with the relevant European train operator.  You'll find guidance on which websites to use for which journey on the Seat 61 website.

Option 4: Mix and match

Of course, why not pre-book a cheap advance-purchase ticket for a long-distance journey at the beginning or end of your trip, a railpass for flexibility in the middle, and a normal ticket bought at the station for a short trip where it wasn't worth spending a day on your pass?

Mark Smith is the Man in Seat 61.

For inspiration on where to travel in Europe by train, ride over to lonelyplanet.com and take a look at the article on 'Europe's 8 best night trains'.

Best ways to see Europe

Four wheels, two wheels, ferry or foot – in this extract from Lonely Planet's 1000 Ultimate Experiences, we show you how to best get the continent covered.

By Trabant, Berlin, Germany

This boxy, growling, two-stroke auto proliferated in the Eastern bloc pre-1989. When the Wall came down many easterners fled to the west in their 'Trabis', their transport to a new world. Now you can relive some of Berlin's most poignant moments in one of your own: guided fleets of spruced-up Trabants tour the capital, from Checkpoint Charlie to little-known ex-communist hangouts. Commentary is piped in from the lead car upfront while you steer your own piece of history.

By PostBus, Switzerland

A big yellow coach doesn't sound very glamorous, especially in a country bursting with elegant lake steamers, timely trains and vertiginous funiculars. But don't discount the humble PostBus. Operated by the Swiss mail system, these functional vehicles provide the missing link, connecting tiny or hard-to-reach communities that would otherwise be near impossible for carless travellers to access. Take Meiringen (where Conan Doyle dispatched Holmes over the nearby Reichenbach Falls): in summer the yellow bus squeezes along the narrow, 2200m Sustenpass to deliver letters and mountain-lovers to the town, a great base for striking out into the hills.

By canal boat, France

Life slows down on the waterways of France. Once all-important for transporting goods and connecting settlements, today canals are the peaceful back roads. Rent a houseboat and set off , mooring at pretty villages and negotiating an écluse (lock) or three – perhaps buying some homemade mustard from the enterprising lock-keeper as you pass. Most impressive is the 240km Canal du Midi linking the Med with the Atlantic, built in the 17th century to avoid Spain's pirate-infested waters. Gorge on cassoulet in Castelnaudary, creep through the Malpas Tunnel and explore Carcassonne's medieval splendour, all without exceeding 6km/h – slow travel at its best.

By train, everywhere

Rails have never been more romantic: a vast web of tracks spider the continent, linking evocative cities, delving courageously into mountain valleys and trundling out to rural backwaters. Chug from Parisian boulevard to German castle to Greek acropolis in a few short hops, discussing pop and politics with locals – though not at the expense of superlative window gazing. The ultimate journey is the Orient Express. Not the flashy (and pricey) tourist train – the original, though shortened, Orient Express service still runs under that name from Strasbourg to Vienna. Book a couchette for a historic (if jiggly) night's sleep.

By Vespa, Tuscany, Italy

Twisting, empty roads skirting rolling fields of vines and cypress trees, hilltop tumbles of houses and bell towers, and you – so chic as you glide by on a shiny Vespa. La dolce vita, indeed. Tuscan back roads are ideal for exploration on Italy's national vehicle: scooter-pace enables you to exchange buongiornos with passing farmers, to sniff wildflowers and maturing pecorino, and to delve into cobbled town centres, off limits to cars but accessible to two-wheeled travellers. String together wow cities such as Siena, Florence and Lucca with country detours; the lesser-known pootle between San Gimignano and Volterra is one of the best.

By ferry, Norway

It's taken millennia for Norway's coast – a succession of glacier-gouged fjords stretching up into the Arctic Circle – to look this good. Take to the water to appreciate the drama: 1300m-high rock walls, waterfalls and remote fishing villages can be accessed by ferries. For the full picture board one of the Hurtigruten fleet: coastal express boats delivering travellers, villagers, parcels and pickled herring to tiny communities along the serrated shoreline every day of the year, be it glorious midsummer or northern-lights-flashed midwinter. Disembark for hill hikes or simply watch the fjords float by.

By caravan, Ireland

There's something appealing about cramming into a gaily painted traditional Irish caravan, harnessing a stocky horse and rolling off across the Celtic countryside at a sedate 6km/h. These retro wagons have been trundling for 150 years – though today's nomadic Irish Travellers have 'upgraded' to lorry-pulled fiberglass versions, you can hire a curved-roof wooden replica. A few quick lessons in horse care (oats for one end, shovel for the other) and you're clopping along lanes, admiring loughs (lakes), finding deserted beaches and stopping off at pubs en route – for the craic, a Guinness and a dash to the loo (caravans are heavy on atmosphere, light on plumbing).

By foot, everywhere

Free, green and a good way to earn pizza/wurst/tapas credits, exploring by foot opens up any country's nooks and crannies. Get lost in the great cities: Parisian alleys, Roman backstreets and London parks all reward transport-shunning wanderers. On a grander scale, follow one of the continent's mammoth walking trails: there are 11 official long-distance routes. Try the E7, which snakes for 4330km from the Portuguese–Spanishborder to Nagylak in Hungary. Or perhaps the E1 – 4900km through Sweden, Denmark, Germany and Switzerland to Italy. If you're serious about really seeing Europe, this is the way forward. Just pack comfy boots.

By bicycle, the Netherlands

The Netherlands: 20,000km of fietspad (cycle paths) and a high point of just 322m – possibly the perfect place to get on your bike. Take a spin alongside Amsterdam's canals, then head out into the countryside: wend between Friesland's interconnected lakes, investigate the polders and old-school fishing villages of Noord Holland or pedal through the forests and sheep fields of the Drenthe region, where hunebedden (ancient stone graves) lay scattered by the paths. To get away from it all (not easy in this densely populated nation) steer towards the Veluwe: villages are scarce, trees plentiful and wild boar and deer your cycle mates.

By sea-kayak, Croatia

There are more than 1000 islands scattered off the Adriatic Coast of Croatia, outcrops bearing olive groves, tavernas or uninhabited wilderness. Conveniently for paddling explorers, many are clustered close together, so it's possible for even beginners to glide from one to the next with relative ease. Just a 40-minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik's Old Town walls, you can be kayaking the Elafiti Islands: don't miss a glass of the locally pressed wine of Sipan and the beaches of Lopud. Or cast off in Kornati National Park, a cluster of 140 rugged islands, where there are more buzzards than people.

Want more unmissable adventures? Check out Lonely Planet's guide to the world's 1000 Ultimate Experiences.

How to travel in Europe

Fifty sovereign states. 10,180,000 sq km. 738,200,000 people. The word ‘Europe’ does little to convey the diversity found within, which can make it a bewildering place to travel. So here’s a handy guide to your transport options:

Car

Budget: medium-high (London-Prague petrol from EUR360 return, plus car hire cost).
Ideal time frame: 2-4 weeks.
So? Expensive flexibility.

With petrol costs soaring, driving yourself around Europe is increasingly pricey. If hiring a car or camper, add this cost too (note, fees for picking up/dropping off cars in different countries are huge), plus road tolls and multi-country car insurance. You also need an International Driving Permit.

Cram several people into your own car, however, and costs can be shared. And you have the ultimate freedom to explore, unbeholden to public transport timetables. Monaco has the world’s busiest roads, with Italy, Germany and the UK also in the top 10.

Visit www.driverabroad.com for self-drive tips.

Plane

Budget: low-high, depending on your booking nous (London-Prague from EUR60 return).
Ideal time frame: 1-2 weeks.
So? Quick, but missing the point.

The rise of low-cost airlines has made plane-hopping Europe an affordable proposition. Budget carriers have also opened up more unusual airports (Bydgoszcz or Lappeenranta, anyone?), meaning you can access offbeat regions cheaper than ever.

However, flying might be fast but it also means travelling light – many airlines charge extra for hold luggage, not to mention fees for paying by credit card or simply checking in. If you fly, know the tricks to avoid these extras mounting up.

And, unless you’re very short on time, it’s not ideal: you’ll end up flying over the continent, rather than experiencing it.

Train

Budget: medium-high (London-Prague from EUR215 return).
Ideal time frame: 2-4 weeks.
So? The scenic classic.

Railways spider all over Europe. And, even if Orient Express glamour is long gone (unless you can afford today’s swish replicas), this is still the most romantic way to travel: comfy, quick, scenery gliding by. Great choices for train trips include Italy (cheap), Switzerland (expensive but awesome), France (fast) and Germany (easy).

You can buy single-country railpasses, or broader InterRail (www.interrailnet.com) passes that allow travel to multiple countries within set time frames. Note that passes are not always the best option. If you’re making just a few short journeys, or sticking to a rigid pre-bookable itinerary, it may be better to buy point-to-point tickets.

Inside the 25-country Schengen Area (www.schengenvisa.cc) there are no internal border controls, though you still need your passport. Between Schengen and non-Schengen nations, there are passport checks as you approach the boundary.

In some instances (for example, when entering Turkey) you must leave the train at a border station to obtain a visa – ensure you have any required fees/documents.

Consult www.seat61.com, a matchless repository of rail info, and www.bahn.de, which has continent-wide timetables.

Bus

Budget: medium (London-Prague from EUR77 return).
Ideal time frame: 3-4 weeks.
So? Slow and steady.

Lacking the panache of train travel, buses are still a useful way of crossing the continent.

Individual countries have their own bus networks, which will open up access to villages trains don’t reach. Eurolines’ fleet of coaches connects 500 destinations across the continent; passes and point-to-point tickets are available.

The downsides can be cramped seats and long journeys – and motion sickness on winding Alpine roads (pack tablets). If you cross borders outside the Schengen, you may have to get off the bus for checks.

Bike

Budget: low.
Ideal time frame: 1-3 months.
So? The best immersion.

Cycling in Europe is a pleasure – in general, cyclists here are treated with respect, not run off the road. Also, trains on the continent are often relaxed about transporting bikes.

Plan a route according to your abilities: the flat Netherlands? Hilly Switzerland? Note, mountain regions have fewer roads, so you’re more likely to be flanked by traffic. Check out EuroVelo (www.eurovelo.org), which is creating a network of 13 long-distance cycle-touring routes.

The advantages of bike travel are myriad: you’re immersed in the countries you traverse, and you can save a lot of money (though a longer trip duration may mitigate that). Downsides are the time commitment and, well, it’s pretty darn tiring.

Foot

Budget: low.
Ideal time frame: 3-12 months.
So? Epic – if you have the time.

The ultimate in slow travel, a walk across Europe will allow you to properly soak up its diversity.

Options are endless. A series of official long-distance trails, managed by the European Ramblers’ Association (www.era-ewv-ferp.com), branches across the continent. For example, the E1 wends for 4,900km from Arctic Sweden to Italy’s Abruzzo Mountains; the 10,450km E4 links Tarifa (Spain) to Cyprus.

Or pick a historic route. The full Camino de Santiago pilgrimage crosses France and Spain; the Via Francigena runs from Canterbury to Rome.

You can’t really go wrong – just go where your feet feel like taking you. Do carry a tent to keep costs down – this will likely be a long trip…

For itineraries, tips and travel inspiration, cast your wandering eye over some of our favourite articles on European trips:

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Riding in the Rain, Hydration, and Foot Pain

Is it safe to ride in the rain?
Yes—as long a you're extra vigilant about signaling, traffic rules, and your surroundings. On slippery surfaces, keep your effort steady: Standing up on a steep, wet road can cause your back wheel to slip, and hitting the brakes too hard may make you skid. If you live where it rains often, consider wider tires. The smoother, softer, and wider they are, says Matthew Karre, sales manager at River City Bicycles in Portland, Oregon, the more contact between rubber and road. If you're caught in a downpour with regular tires, stop and let out a few psi of air. And remember, roads will be very slick during the first rain after a dry spell because oils have built up on the surface. Other hazards: leaves, manhole covers, train tracks, and painted road lines.

Do I really need to buy different drink mixes for before, during, and after my rides? 
Packaged drink products are handy because they provide fuel that's premeasured for different needs. But before you shell out for them, consider that basic ride nutrition isn't that complicated to begin with. One to two hours before you start pedaling, fill your tank with about 20 ounces of fluid, up to 50 grams of carbs, and a little sodium, says Leslie Bonci, MPH, RD, director of sports nutrition at University of Pittsburgh Medical Center. "It could be in the form of a sports drink, powdered lemonade with a pinch of salt, or plain water with a bagel and jam, or a bowl of cereal," she says. What you eat during the ride depends on the duration. If you're heading out for just an hour, water is fine. Any longer and you need to plan for about 30 grams of carbs per hour. That could be a 16-ounce sports drink or water plus an energy gel or chew. After a ride, your goal should be to rehydrate, replenish energy, and eat some protein to rebuild muscles. Chocolate milk has become the gold standard for a reason. It's relatively cheap, tastes good, and has an optimal ratio of carbs to protein, Bonci says.

I keep getting foot pain when I ride. Is it my shoes? 
Most likely, yes, says Curtis Cramblett, LPT, a USA Cycling expert-level coach. Hot spots (painful areas of pressure) flare when a nerve is compressed between the bones. Bike shoes are meant to fit snugly, but not uncomfortably. If your foot feels pinched or constricted, your shoe may not be tall or wide enough, especially if your feet swell while riding. Also check that your cleat is in a neutral position—not rotated to either side. And it should be centered just behind the ball of your foot—but experiment, because some riders prefer the cleat farther back. Finally, check whether your footwear has proper arch support. If you feel pain in a specific spot, your shoe may not be distributing your weight throughout your arch and midfoot. "Try adding orthotic inserts to change the distribution of pressure," Cramblett says. Some brands, like eSoles, allow you to customize the height of the arch. If these tweaks don't work, you may want to adjust your saddle. When it's too low or too far forward, it can put pressure on the wrong part of your feet.

How often should I clean my chain, and with what? 
Regular cleaning prolongs the life of your drivetrain and makes every pedal rotation smoother. Deep-clean a road-bike chain with degreaser every 300 to 500 miles (more often for mountain or cyclocross bikes). "I use WD-40 Bike Heavy Duty Degreaser," says Tori Bortman, who teaches bike maintenance in Portland, Oregon. "Put a little on an old toothbrush and scrub all sides of the links." Do the same with the cassette and chainrings. Then hose everything off, dry with a clean rag, and relubricate. Between deep cleanings, apply lube to your chain about every 100 miles, or after every muddy or wet ride, and wipe off the excess.

How to Buy Your First Bicycle

The tips and tricks you need to know for bike shopping

 NEIL BEZDEK

 you plan to do more than just salivate over the shiny new bikes in our Buyer's Guide, you might be feeling a little overwhelmed by your options. Before your head explodes, allow us to demystify the process of bicycle buying.

Start by deciding which of the most common bike types makes sense for you—mountain, road, hybrid, or city/commuter. Next, factor in your cycling goals. Consider things like what kind of terrain you'll ride most, what distance you want to cover, and what you want to accomplish.

If you're more interested in exploring off road, your choice is pretty straightforward: Look for a mountain bike with wide, knobby tires, a flat handlebar, strong brakes, and shock-absorbing suspension that's made for rough, unpredictable trails. You'll then need to decide how much suspension you want (most have between 4 and 8 inches of travel) and which wheel size is right for you: 26-, 27.5-, or 29-inch. Smoother trails require less travel and allow you to use larger, more stable wheels.

If you expect to spend most of your time on pavement, your options increase. Depending on your goals, you might want a road bike, a commuter, or a hybrid. Most road bikes have smooth, skinny tires and a curved handlebar, and place you in a bent-over position suited for speed. Hybrids provide comfort and stability via moderately thick tires and an upright riding position, a compromise that allows you to ride easily on city streets or packed-dirt paths. Commuter bikes range from sturdy workhorses to stylish fashion accessories, and often have utilitarian features like rack and fender mounts, an upright frame design, and low-maintenance drivetrains.

Choosing between the three depends on how hard, how long, and where you want to ride, says Mattie Davitt, sales manager at Piermont Bicycle Connection in Piermont, New York. Many bike makers offer hybrids with high-quality drivetrains and disc brakes. They're lightweight and fun to ride, making them a solid choice for commuters or new riders who want one bike to run errands, cruise the rail-trail, and ride with the family. But if you're planning to burn some serious calories, train for a charity ride, or maybe even sign up for a race, you'll be more satisfied with a road bike, says Davitt.

In terms of versatility, don't discount a road bike just because the name implies a single purpose. "Manufacturers are getting better at catering to people who want to do more than one thing," says Nelson Gutierrez, owner of Strictly Bicycles in Fort Lee, New Jersey. They see that buyers often want to use one bike for exercise and commuting. With features like thicker tires, disc brakes, and a more upright geometry, many current road models are fast, efficient—and rugged.

Budget for More Than Just the Bike
Decide how much money you want to invest in your cycling goals before you start shopping. Then, regardless of your budget, allocate about two-thirds of it to the bike. You'll want the rest for accessories—because no matter your price range, you still need basics like a helmet, a pump, a water bottle, and bottle cages.

Prioritize Fit
Even a top-shelf bike will be miserable to ride if it doesn't fit. Any good salesperson should help you find the right size, then make at least four adjustments: seat height, saddle position, handlebar height, and reach. Better: Find a shop staffed with a certified fitter who will take precise measurements, set you up on multiple bikes, and swap parts if necessary to dial your position. This kind of service usually costs extra, so factor that into your budget. And beware: Sometimes retailers offer deep discounts on odd-sized bikes left over from past seasons; resist the temptation unless the bike is truly your size.

IT'S OK TO...
Bring along your old bike and explain what you like or don't like about it.

Ask the salesperson to translate jargon into English.

Allow aesthetics to influence your decision—but not to the detriment of a good fit.

Test Lots of Models
Bike shopping is a lot like buying a house or car—you should rarely purchase the first model you see. If you're still riding the same clunker that's been in your garage since high school, almost any new bike is going to feel amazing, but that's only because the technology has come a long way. On the other hand, an unfamiliar bike at the shop might feel wrong just because it's different.

Narrow Your Search 
Try to focus your options to three models based on your budget and intended use. Then make sure you take an adequate test ride of at least 15 to 20 minutes—longer if you can. Before you take that spin, though, ask for fit adjustments and a quick tutorial on how the bike operates, says Gutierrez. You might dismiss an otherwise worthy model if you're stretching to reach the handlebar or fumbling with a type of shifter you've never used.

Dress the Part 
For test rides or bike fittings, put on the same apparel and shoes you plan to use on actual rides. A bicycle can fit one way when you're in jeans and another when you're wearing cycling shorts.

Seek Personal Service 
There's nothing wrong with shopping for bargains online. But consider all the advantages of going to a brick-and-mortar store. Besides fit sessions and test rides, a shop will ensure quality assembly and might offer free adjustments for a period of time, as well as other discounts on accessories included with the purchase of a complete bike. A shop is also a venue for getting to know other cyclists through organized group rides and events, says Charles von Isenburg, owner of Mock Orange Bikes in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. "We invite our customers into the cycling community," he says. "It's our greatest service for the new rider."

Anatomy lesson: know your bike parts.

Route Boredom, Used Carbon, and Squealing Brakes

First, try riding some of them in the opposite direction. The same stretch of road will look and feel entirely different. You can also vary your intensity: Along any route, pick a tree or a sign and push the pace until you reach it, recover until the next landmark, and repeat. Also try mixing up your company. Keeping up with a faster friend will break the monotony and make you stronger, plus the social component bumps up the fun factor. For something completely new, hit the dirt. Road riders are increasingly venturing off the pavement, including former pro Levi Leipheimer. "Even in urban areas you can find unpaved paths, dirt roads and, if you're lucky, singletrack," Leipheimer says. "Exploring to find them is half the fun." You don't necessarily need a different bike, he says; just find the widest tires you can fit on your road bike. "And don't worry—it's okay to get some dust on your bike."

Yet bored doing the same routes all the time. What can I do to mix it up? 

Sometimes I need to look at my pedals to clip in. That's okay, right? 
Not really. Looking down while riding—or even from a stopped position when you're just getting going—is one reason cyclists sometimes wobble into traffic or drop off the back of a group, says Bicyclingmechanic Mike Yozell. As with texting while driving, taking your eyes off the road or trail even for a second can be enough to put yourself and others in harm's way. Rather than turn your focus to the ground and away from what's ahead, continue rolling with the cranks turning and your feet resting on the pedals. Eventually your cleats will find their way in. Still not feeling confident? Go to an empty parking lot or a section of road where there's no traffic and practice.

I recently upgraded from an old, heavy mountain bike to a road bike and now feel terrified going downhill. Any suggestions? 
Transitioning from the upright position of a hybrid or mountain bike to a more bent-over road posture can be intimidating, but the trade-off will be worthwhile: You'll swap the (relative) comfort and stability of your old bike for agility and speed. First, get a bike fit to make sure you are comfortable in all riding positions. Next, check your tire width. Wider tires make for more predictable steering and can boost your confidence, says Andy Bajadali, a coach with Boulder Junior Cycling, in Colorado. "I recommend 25c or 28c, and run the pressure around 85 to 95 psi." Be aware that brake pads, calipers, levers, and cables can be adjusted for your preference; it's worth asking your mechanic for help. Finally, get out and practice. Always look ahead, eyes scanning the road about 20 feet in front of you so you can spot the best line and make tiny adjustments. Control your speed, and brake before any sharp turns. And spend time with your hands in the lower part of your handlebar (the drops). "It's the best position for stability and steering, and it lowers your center of gravity," Bajadali says.

Is the manufacturer's warranty still valid if I buy a used carbon bike? 
"A warranty is usually voided when a frame is resold," says Shawn Small, owner of Ruckus Composites, a shop where standard carbon-fiber repairs can cost $350 to $500. In addition, most warranties apply only to defects in materials and workmanship, not to damage caused by a crash or a dropped bike. Given that there are so many deals on used bikes online, know the risks before you buy. A small impact can crack a carbon-fiber frame without damaging the paint, making it hard to spot a problem. Small suggests an in-person inspection of the frame and fork to look for paint cracks or irregularities. If anything is taped over, ask to see underneath. Scope the chainstays for damage caused by a jammed chain, and don't overlook carbon steerer tubes. "We've seen a few cracked, overclamped, and too-short tubes," Small says.

How can I stop my disc brakes from squealing? 
Always break in new disc brakes properly before your first ride. Here's how: Head to an empty parking lot and make 20 moderate-speed stops and a dozen or so stops at high speed. Then allow the brakes to cool before you start pedaling again. When disc brakes squeal after they're broken in, it's usually because of contamination by chain grease, oil from your fingers, or some other foreign substance, explains Nick Murdick, technical training coordinator for Shimano. Clean your rotors and replace the brake pads. Murdick's routine: Wet rotors thoroughly with rubbing alcohol, fold a clean paper shop towel, pinch it around the rotor, and wipe it dry in one pass. Use a fresh part of the towel (or a new one) for every swipe.

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5 Stupid Rules You Should Break

Why? Because rules just complicate things. Especially stupid rules. And often, they become excuses not to ride.
 BY BICYCLING STAFF

Rule: Sunglass arms go over helmet straps.
Break It: Anyone who notices you doing it—and who cares—is not to be trusted.

Rule: Cycling shorts should be black.
Break It: Have you seen the green ones at tenspeedhero.com? Game changers.

Rule: Cycling caps are only for cycling.
Break It: Caps are appropriate anytime a bike is in sight, such as cafe stops, wrenching at home, or watching a race.

Rule: Tubes, tools, and repair kits must be stored in jersey pockets.
Break It: Um, saddlebags are a fantastic invention. (Related: Who says you always have to ride in a cycling jersey?)

Rule: Cyclists must eat packaged bars, gels, and chews meant for athletes.
Break It: Bagels, raisins, Red Vines. You will survive even if you don't ingest the perfect carb-to-protein ratio.

The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to Bicycling

So you're ready to start riding seriously for the first time? In this adaptation of a book destined to become a novice's bible, the owner of a renowned bike clinic outlines exactly how to get started—from gear to riding skills to the single most important fix everyone should know.

 TORI BORTMAN

sitioned for Success

If you're new to a road bike, you may feel on your first rides as if your body is being thrown unnaturally far forward. Because your whole torso is relatively low to the ground, it might I seem as if you could go over the bar at any second. Stay relaxed and practice riding in low-traffic areas, and soon your fight-or-flight reptilian brain will learn that this position is as comfortable and as safe as any other—because it is.

There are three riding positions. The most common is neutral, in which your hands are generally on top of the hoods (which cover the brake levers) so you have access to the brakes and shifters. If the bike fits you properly, you will be able to freely turn your head to look around, not have too much pressure on your hands, and feel comfortable for extended periods of time. Viewed from the side, your torso and arms should almost form a 90-degree angle. Make an effort to keep your shoulders broad and away from your ears and your chest forward.

When you need to lower your torso or center of gravity, the C-shaped lower portion of your handlebar—called the "drops"—is there for you. You'll want your hands in the drops most often when descending, especially down long, steep inclines. Your torso will be bent more forward from the hips and your wrists will be angled so you can readily reach the brake levers, and you'll have more leverage when you use them. When you move to this position for descending, you'll also shift your weight slightly backward in your seat and toward the rear wheel to give you more traction.

As you spend more time in the saddle and find your comfort zones, try standing, a position mostly used when climbing but also to rest your muscles and soft tissues. To stand, start in a neutral position. As you rise up, your weight will naturally shift forward, which may cause your bike to lurch a bit. Keep your arms relaxed so you can easily make this transition without swerving. With your torso bent slightly forward, keep your hips (essentially your center of gravity) still, mostly centered above and just in front of the nose of the saddle.

Next: Steer Clear of Road Trouble. You can also jump to a specific section below:

Positioned for Success – Practice riding in the three basic riding positions

Steer Clear of Road Trouble – Stay upright with this simple advice

Turn the Corner – How to move through turns like a pro

Going Up – Climbing hills is about more than strength.

Quick Change Artist – You can become a skilled flat-repair expert in no time

Know Your Cycling Etiquette – A few basic rules of the road

Pedal Like a Pro – Stay light and spin to flow effortlessly

17 More Fueling, Apparel, and Gear Tips – Nutritional advice, what to wear, and must-have cycling items

eer Clear of Road Trouble

Stay upright with this simple advice

Illustration: Joel Kimmel

Potholes & Debris
Keep your eyes up the road so you can move out of the way of the likes of broken glass and loose gravel. If you can't avoid an obstacle, stand on your pedals and relax your arms and legs. Don't hit the brakes; momentum will help carry you over.

Rain
Ride a little slower than normal, give yourself longer to slow, and make yourself as visible as possible with bright clothing or lights.

Railroad Tracks
Always cross the tracks as close to 90 degrees as possible. By making your path perpendicular to the grooves, you're less likely to fall into them. If the tracks are raised or rutted, coast over them without braking.

Other Cyclists
On a shared path, you might be cycling with people who may have no idea how to ride with others. Slow down and ring your bell or call out a warning of "On your left!" before passing on that side.

Wet Leaves or Metal
Brake and slow down before, for example, rolling over rain-soaked manhole covers. When your tires make contact, coast—don't pedal or brake. Accelerating or hitting the brakes can cause your wheels to slide out.

Motor Vehicles
Keep an eye out for cars exiting or entering driveways or other turns. If it looks like a car is slowing but isn't signaling, assume it is going to turn anyway and wait to see what it does before proceeding.

Turn the Corner

Most novices intuitively assume that steering through corners requires turning the handlebar. This is true at very slow speeds, but mostly you guide the bike around curves by leaning the frame and shifting your weight in the direction you're turning.

First, and we can't emphasize this enough, relax. Loose joints allow you to move around on the bike easily and stay off the brakes. Next, look ahead, through, and around the bend. You'll be tempted to look straight into the corner of the turn. If you do, that's where you'll ride—possibly right off the road. It may sound counter-intuitive, but force yourself to look as far down the road as possible by following the pavement markings until they disappear on the horizon. Sometimes this means your head will be turned completely to one side, and it may seem like you're not watching where you're going, but that's precisely what you're doing. When you look far ahead, your bike and body will naturally veer in the correct direction while your peripheral vision picks up any obstacles on the road in front of you. As you coast around the corner, make a wide arc. To do this, you'll use the whole lane, so make sure traffic is clear. As you enter the turn, start with your bike close to the outside of the curve. Riding into it, aim for the inside of the corner (but don't cross into the other lane). As you exit, arc back to the outside.

Position your feet so your inside pedal (the one closest to the apex) is up and your pedal closest to the outside of the road is down. This will naturally angle the bike somewhat, and this temporary shift in your normally upright position might seem a little scary at first, but it takes advantage of the bike's natural gravitational pull. If you try to fight this by keeping your bike upright, you'll lose traction and speed.

On fast corners, try putting your hands in the drops to lower your center of gravity and stabilize yourself. Because the gravitational forces of riding through a curve will cause you to accelerate, always lower your speed before entering the turn. By the time you hit the bend, you should already have slowed down enough that you barely touch the brakes. The thing to avoid: braking hard in the turn. That changes your weight distribution and causes the bike to go from leaning and gripped to the road to upright, difficult to control, and likely to skid out.

Going Up

Climbing hills is about more than strength. Add the right skills and strategy and you'll always reach the top.

	Prepare Before the road rises, take a swig from your bottle, consciously relax your body, and maybe even slow down. When you start out tense, you'll feel worse on the way up. If it's hot, unzip your jersey a bit.
	Downshift Get into an easier gear that lets you turn the pedals quickly without pushing hard. Once the chain is under a lot of tension, it becomes more difficult for it to move between cogs.
	Conserve Energy Keep your breathing deep and steady. If it's hard to push down on the pedals, concentrate on pulling up. Resist the urge to gun it early. If you feel good as you approach the top, that's the time to push.
	Play Mind Games Climbing is as much mental as it is physical. Experiment with distractions. Focus on a tree or a sign up ahead and watch the distance shrink. Sing. Tell a joke. Smile. Try to forget you're climbing.
	Move Around Alternate sitting and standing to use all your muscle groups. If you run through all your gears and can no longer spin easily, move your hands to the hoods and push against them for leverage as you pedal.
	Get Excited As you near the top, take a minute to breathe, look around at the scenery, and prepare for your reward--the descent. If you're really spent, put your feet down and take a rest. And, hey, why not Instagram the view?

It's OK to...
1. Go at your own pace. Other riders may be waiting at the top, but that's not your problem.
2. Get off and walk. Everyone has done it. When remounting, make sure your bike is in an easy gear, check for traffic, then angle your bike across the road.
3. Zig-zag. If the hill is really steep, tack across teh road as much as is safe. You'll slightly level the hill, through you will add distance.

The Stance
Start seated. Keep your back straight and shoulders down so your lungs can expand and take in plenty of oxygen. Relax your arms, with your elbows slightly bent, hands resting comfortably on the bar tops several inches away from the stem. Try to avoid wasting energy with a death grip on the bar. To get more power from your glutes, lower your upper body toward the top tube. If you stand, position your butt over the saddle with your weight centered over the bottom bracket.

Did you know:
Encouraging yourself with a non-first-person pronoun ("You can do it") is more effective than using first person ("I can do it").
(Journal of Personality and Social Psychology)

Quick Change Artist

If you do even a moderate amount of riding, you are going to get a flat tire at some point. The good news? You can become a skilled flat-repair expert in no time.

What you'll need:
 • a new tube
 • 2 tire levers
 • a floor pump, hand pump, or CO2 cartridge and inflator

	Remove the Innertube 1. Open the quick-release or unbolt the axle and remove the wheel from the bike. Remove as much air as possible from the tire by compressing the valve stem.
	2. Working at the area opposite the valve stem, use the rounded end of a tire lever to pop one bead (the hard edge of the tire) off the rim and hook the other end of the lever onto the spoke below. This will keep the bead from jumping back into the rim. Now work the second lever under the bead to the right of the first until there's enough slack to move it freely.
	3. Slide the second lever around the rim clockwise until one bead is entirely off. Pull the tube out of the tire.
	Find the Puncture 1. To avoid getting another flat quickly, find the cause of this one. Inflate the tube to locate the leak.
	2. Run your gloved hand or a piece of cloth along the inside of the tire to feel for any debris penetrating the tread. Now check the outside of the tire for objects that haven't worked through the tread yet. Remove all debris.
	Install the New Tube 1. Align the label on your tire with the rim's valve hole (this will make future punctures easier to locate). Inflate your new tube just enough to hold its shape, insert the valve into the rim, and tuck the tube into the tire.
	2. Beginning at the valve stem, work around the circumference of the tire, using the heels of your hands to push the bead back onto the rim. Make sure the tube isn't getting pinched between the rim and tire as you continue on.
	3. When you reach the area opposite the valve stem, you may need to put a little muscle into getting that last part over the edge of the rim. Tip: Push the valve stem up into the tire so the bead can pop more easily over the rim wall.
	4. Reinflate the tube to around 20 psi, then check that the tire is properly seated on both sides of the rim. If it is, fully inflate it to the psi recommended on the tire's sidewall or to your desired pressure.
Illustrations: Joel Kimmel
For a step-by-step video on changing a flat Know Your Cycling Etiquette A few basic rules of the road Be Predictable Nobody feels safe around the car that's swerving, not using signals, and stopping suddenly. Ride as you would drive—as if you were trying to pass a driver's-license test.   Stick to the Law In most states, bikes are considered vehicles. When riding in the road, always signal, make complete stops at signs, and wait for red lights for your turn to ride through.   Ride to the Right If there's no shoulder on a two-way street, it's always safer to stay a couple of feet out into the road. You'll be visible and force cars behind you to move into the oncoming lane to pass you.   … Except When Turning Left For this move, you'll want to move from the right to the middle of the lane or merge into the left-turn lane if there is one. Check over your left shoulder for oncoming traffic and signal left before moving over.   Stay off Sidewalks Lousy sight lines and people entering or exiting doorways and driveways make riding on sidewalks an accident waiting to happen. If you have to, and the city permits it, ride no faster than 6 to 8 mph—the speed most people jog. Illustrations: Joel Kimmel